Riding a BMW Motorcycle on the 2024 DevilStone Run through Wyoming

Add this scenic state to your riding bucket list

By Sarah Schilke, Photos courtesy of Her2Wheels and Jesse Evans
Wyoming tour Sarah Schilke BMW R 18 nineT
Wyoming, the “Equality State,” is a paradise for motorcycle enthusiasts. I’m pleased to ride the Devilstone Run on the latest iteration of one of my all time favorites, BMW's 2024 R 12 nineT. For far away folks who would like to fly in, there are a number of motorcycle rentals available through Eaglerider, RidersShare, and Moto Wyoming.

From the majestic peaks of the Rockies to the rolling plains, a motorcycle tour through Wyoming is an adventure that promises stunning views and unforgettable experiences.

Each year the crew behind the Ride Fast Don’t Die brand coordinate the inclusive DevilStone Run which is a four day ride from Devil’s Tower to Yellowstone National Park. I was invited to experience the event with a group of journalists, all of us on BMW motorcycles.

Against the backdrop of Wyoming’s most iconic landscapes, we chart our own course alongside the 2024 DevilStone Run. While the main group embraces the nomadic camping spirit of the run, our parallel route offers stays in legendary hotels, exploring Wyoming’s historic towns, providing a nuanced perspective on the region’s character. Each day we meet up with the DevilStone group for the morning rider’s briefing, lunch stop, and the evening campsite shenanigans before peeling off to discover the charm of local accommodations.

DevilStone Run, Day 1: Gillette’s Iron Horse Heritage

After descending into Gillette, Wyoming, we drop our things and change into our gear at the hotel. It’s a quick ride over to the family-run Frontier Auto Museum where we enjoy a private tour. Inside we roam through room after room lovingly decorated in floor to ceiling Americana themes. Classic motorcycles and cars, neon signs, porcelain signs, fashions, gas pumps, oil and gas memorabilia all represent nostalgia of a bygone era in our history.

wyoming auto museum
The Frontier Auto Museum offers a compact city of historic Americana. Photo by Harvey Briggs
bacon in a glass
Is this a Wyoming specialty...Chex mix croutons with a bacon-in-a-glass chaser?

DevilStone Run, Day 2: In the Shadow of Devils Tower

Tipi campground
Dawn breaks over Devil’s Tower, while at the TiPi campground riders are stumbling out of tents after the first night party celebrating new and returning friends.

We arrive just in time for the rider’s meeting. In addition to group safety instructions, the event organizers give an impassioned talk about this event’s history and foundation of inclusivity and forging friendships. While not a women-specific event, I’m impressed by the inclusion of women as riders or passengers and the focus on friendship all around.

Sarah Schilke Jess Her2Wheels Devils Tower
I am excited to spend the trip with YouTube star Jess of Her2Wheels. Here we happily start the day at the base of the infamous Devil’s Tower.

Named the United States’ first National Monument in 1906, there have been many sacred stories about Devil’s Tower passed on over the decades by local Native American Tribes. However, I remember its allure from the 1977 alien thriller: Close Encounters of the Third Kind.

devilstone run journalist group
Our group is ready for the day’s ride taking us from the Devil’s Tower toward the historic town of Sheridan. Fellow journalists include Jonathan Klein on the 2024 F 900 GS, Harvey Briggs on the flagship 2024 R 1300 GS, and Jesse Evans on the 2024 R 18 Roctaine.

We follow the run’s scenic Black Hills route along Highway 14, though we often hang back for photography or to explore side routes. We pass Leiter, a former mining town, before stopping for lunch provided by the Bar and Grill in Spotted Horse, Wyoming, population two.

Spotted Horse motorcycles
The bucking horse and Standard Oil sign provide a quaint roadside attraction. It’s rumored that Peter Fonda’s motorcycle once broke down in Spotted Horse.
Riding in Wyoming
Today’s stretch primarily consists of Wyoming’s beautiful rolling plains. Not a very technical section, it’s easy to gain speed here. But we slow the pace down as we constantly point out deer and antelope on the side of the road to each other.

As evening sets in, we roll into the Devilstone run’s campsite next door to the Big Horn Y fuel station and market. Locals enjoy dining at the market, especially on nights when there is live music. Next door the run participants are having slow races—two and three up—it’s quite a sight. There are food carts, vendors, and even a tattoo station on the campground.

Mint Bar
Downtown Sheridan comes alive after sunset. Here the R nineT strikes a demure pose outside the famed Mint Bar. Opened in 1907, the Mint Bar closed briefly during prohibition but is known to have run a speakeasy in the back. Back when ice was delivered via horse and carriage, the bar provided a social spot for cowboys, ranchers, locals, and travelers. I’ll meet you at the Mint, my friend!
sheridan inn
After the fun we check into the historic Sheridan Inn. This quaint landmark opened in 1893 to accommodate westward moving politicians and business tycoons. The Inn has since been modernized while maintaining its charm. Photo courtesy of the Sheridan Inn

“Miss Kate,” a longtime employee of the Inn, requested to be buried in the walls of her room because she loved the establishment so much. Some employees and guests even report feeling her presence in the halls at times.

Buffalo Bill Bar
One of the Sheridan Inn's most famous residents, Buffalo Bill Cody, resided there for eight years. All the rooms are specially designed around him and other characters from his life. We enjoy post-ride libations at the beautiful cherrywood “Buffalo Bill Bar” which was gifted to Buffalo Bill from Queen Victoria.

DevilStone Run, Day 3: Conquering the Bighorns

The morning sun barely clears the horizon as we reach the ride meet-up spot. A contingent of ADV riders break off to spend the morning on an off-road route over the Bighorn mountains.

devilstone run
I love dirt riding, so I convince some of the media group riders to take the ADV loop with me. Although I’m on a full blown street bike with street tires, it seems like a great idea.

Riding a street bike down a gravel road is much easier than maneuvering around knotty trails, through water crossings, and up silty hills. I spend much of the ride un-tensing my body which is in an awkward position standing up on the R nineT. But in the end, I manage to complete the ADV section without incident.

gravel riding
If you have the opportunity to get into the backcountry in Wyoming, definitely take it. Riding through the vast hills and canyons following the scent of pine trees offers another epic experience of the state’s scenic grandeur. I recommend opting for off-road tires, however.

We pop back out onto the road behind some of the DevilStone riders and descend into Shell Creek Canyon. After the white-knuckle technical off-road section, the long fast sweepers are a welcome change. Lunch finds us at the Old Shell Store, a welcome sight after hours of riding. Inside, the wood-paneled walls showcase decades of travel memorabilia. The famous buffalo burger lives up to its reputation.

The afternoon ride opens into vast basins and badlands. Since we have a relatively short day planned, our group opts to take an excursion up the Chief Joseph Highway. The scenic byway follows the route taken by Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce tribe as he led his people out of Yellowstone National Park in 1877 while attempting to escape the U.S. Cavalry.

Chief Joseph highway
Chief Joseph Highway provides epic Badlands views and curves as we ride into the waning sunlight. It spans 46 miles through the Shoshone forest, the magical Sunlight Basin, winds along the Clark’s Fork of Yellowstone River until intersecting with Highway 212, the Beartooth Highway.

As we reach the intersection of another technical scenic road that belongs on your motorcycle bucket list, the Beartooth pass, the sun is starting to dip behind the highest peaks. Most of us decide to backtrack the Chief Joseph to reach Cody before nightfall.

Her2Wheels Jess Beartooth pass
Jess opts to head up to the Beartooth Pass Vista. This is an epic ride, looping back around instead of backtracking, but gets her in well after dark, rolling in on fumes.

Cody, Wyoming, Founded in 1896 by Buffalo Bill Cody

We park the bikes and stroll along Sheridan Avenue, the historic main street lined with western-style architecture. The Buffalo Bill Center of the West dominates the cultural landscape. It comprises five museums in one: the Buffalo Bill Museum itself; the Plains Indians Museum; the Cody Firearms Museum; the Draper Natural History Museum; and the Whitney Western Art Museum. You could spend days in Cody exploring them all.

History buffs will want to check out Old Trail Town on the west edge of Cody. Authentic frontier buildings are preserved here, including Butch Cassidy’s cabin from his Hole-in-the-Wall hideout. The saloons, homesteader cabins, and general store paint a vivid picture of life in the early West. Nearby Heart Mountain Interpretive Center, preserves the history of the Japanese American internment camp that operated here during World War II.

After this incredible day, I jump into the shower with my gear on hoping to wash off the dirt and silt from the off-road adventure.

bike wash
Staying at the Best Western Sunset Inn isn’t exactly the luxury we’ve become accustomed to on our media ride. But lucky for me they provide a bike washing station for guests. I’m able to restore the R nineT to its shining glory with the help of Harvey.

DevilStone Run, Day 4: Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons

This morning the whole DevilStone group is treated to breakfast at the Irma Hotel. The renowned site was built by Buffalo Bill himself in 1902 and named for his daughter. In recognition of its place in America's cultural foundation, the Irma is listed on the National Register of Historic Places by the National Park Service. Inside, the expansive dining room features another historic "Buffalo Bill" bar.

Irma Hotel
After breakfast at the Irma Hotel in Cody, we prepare for our ride to Yellowstone National Park.

Everyone in our small group has been through Yellowstone National Park before and are dreading the slow-moving lines of rubberneckers and motorhomes typical of peak season. If it’s your first time in Yellowstone, it’s all worth it to see the geysers and other famous waypoints. On the motorcycles, we are in it for winding roads through scenery, wild animals, and generally enjoying one of America’s most special treasures.

Setting out early from Cody, we head along Hwy 14 into the East entrance of the park. We head over Sylvan pass at 8,530 feet and pass by Grizzly Peak (9,948 feet) before stopping at our first glimpse of Yellowstone Lake. The largest body of water in the park covers a vast 136 square miles with 110 miles of scenic shoreline.
Setting out early from Cody, we head along Hwy 14 into the East entrance of the park. We head over Sylvan pass at 8,530 feet and pass by Grizzly Peak (9,948 feet) before stopping at our first glimpse of Yellowstone Lake. The largest body of water in the park covers a vast 136 square miles with 110 miles of scenic shoreline.

At the top of the lake, first timers will want to head south and around to the ever popular Old Faithful. From there you can see plenty of other scenery, picnic and camping spots, and geysers and either head out the West entrance or continue to make a complete loop through the park.

bison in road
In addition to the slow moving cars and motorhomes, you will often have to slow or even stop for roaming wildlife. This is one of several bison we get to see up close—maybe too close for comfort! Photo by Her2Wheels

We opt to head north along the Yellowstone River. At 700 miles, it is the longest free-flowing river in the continental U.S. We stop to see the 308-foot plummeting flows of the South Falls. From there we head up to Canyon Village visitor center to fuel up and grab some souvenirs before finding a quiet spot for a riverside lunch.

yellowstone sign
I manage to score a great shot of the Yellowstone sign just before two busloads of tourists roll in.

We are hot and getting tired of the single lane traffic when suddenly the Grand Tetons come into view and we almost stop in our tracks. The absolute grandeur of this immense wall of stone mountains defies description. 

The Teton range towers almost 7,000 feet above Jackson Hole ski and wilderness area. Formed 13 million years ago and still growing, the central three Tetons (Grand, Middle, and South) apex at 13,776 feet.

There is a well-placed parking area which makes a prime spot for photos of the incredible mountain backdrop.
There is a well-placed parking area which makes a prime spot for photos of the incredible mountain backdrop.
colter bay
We stop by Colter Bay, where the DevilStone group sets up for their final night together. After the hot day, the cool water provides some relief as well as a lovely sunset backdrop.
Mountain Modern Hotel
We continue to Jackson, where the Mountain Modern Hotel welcomes us with its blend of Western luxury and contemporary small town charm.
silver dollar bar
Hopes for dining at the popular Silver Dollar Bar in the Wort Hotel are dashed on a too-busy Saturday night. The restaurant is inlaid with 2,032 uncirculated Morgan Silver Dollars from the Denver mint.

Instead we luck out by running across the street to the award-winning, women-owned Miazga’s restaurant. Their delicious, homemade Polish and Italian cuisine is complemented by creative beverages featuring local spirits.

DevilStone Run, Day 5: Homeward Bound

I don’t know about you, but I’ve always wondered why people talk about “Jackson Hole” when the town itself is just “Jackson, Wyoming.” Jackson Hole isn’t just the ski area, it refers to the entire gorgeous valley including Teton Village, The Aspens, Wilson, Moose, and Moran Junction. “Hole” is reportedly a historical term used to describe a high mountain valley.

airport
The trip doesn’t end at the airport. In fact, flying out of Jackson provides some spectacular views of the Grand Tetons from the sky as well as the ground.

The Spirit of the Run

Since I’m not an eager camper, maintaining our own accommodation choices and ride rhythm proves to be the perfect formula for me. While the main group embraces the immersive experience of camping under Wyoming’s star-filled skies, my journey through the state’s historic hotels adds another layer to the adventure. Each morning, we depart from towns and buildings that helped shape the American West, carrying their stories with us as we ride through the landscapes that inspired them.

go fast don't die
I get a fun shot with the main man coordinating the DevilStone Run, Brady Mclean, which depicts his fun, inclusive personality. He is also behind the Go Fast Don’t Die brand and “raising heck.” He explains that “go fast” means doing what you love and “don’t die” means don’t participate in death by 1000 boring tasks. The Run certainly encourages this motto.

The flexibility of independent travel, exemplified by moments like our tranquil lunch beside the Yellowstone River and evenings in historic hotels, combined with the camaraderie of group gatherings during the day, allows us to experience Wyoming’s splendor in our own unique way while still benefiting from the collective energy of the DevilStone group.

For motorcyclists seeking to experience the best of Wyoming, the DevilStone Run proves that there’s room for multiple approaches to adventure. Whether camping under the stars or staying in hotels that hosted legendary Western figures, whether finding a private spot for lunch along the Yellowstone River or sharing stories over campsite dinner, the journey reveals how different approaches to the same road can lead to equally rewarding adventures. Through the combined perspectives of independent exploration and group connection, this year’s run demonstrates the true essence of motorcycle travel—the freedom to craft your own perfect journey while sharing the experience with kindred spirits.

More Info

Mark your calendars for the 9th Annual DevilStone Run, August 29–September 1, 2025. Learn more and purchase tickets here.

Other helpful links for planning your Wyoming vacation include:
TravelWyoming.com
VisitGilletteWright.com
CodyWY.gov
SheridanWyoming.org
VisitJacksonHole.com

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